Abel
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Posts: 9
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Post by Abel on Dec 31, 2016 15:13:03 GMT -6
Hello all. I have begun my journey into the world of crystalline glazed pottery and could use some advice. I have been researching the process and equipment needs for some time on this site and also the greater web. I have set up a studio and purchased a brand new L&L JD2927-JH Crystalline Kiln and the L&L kiln vent. I am looking for kiln furniture and would like to hear everyone's thoughts regarding the best furniture to use. I believe I have narrowed down my choices to high alumina shelves or ""Advancer" shelves for electric kilns". As you probably know, the Advancer shelves are very expensive. They run about $420.00 for one full shelf for my size kiln. It seems they have many advantages over other types of shelves, but I am wondering if the high alumina shelves would work satisfactory for my needs when firing to cone 10 and above on a regular basis. It is my understanding that "lesser" shelves warp and crack at those temperatures. What are you guys using and how happy have you been with long term shelf performance? I can probably take the financial bite and get the Advancers, but don't want to waste my money if it is unnecessary. Also, and this is of equal importance to the above question, can you guys give me insights in what you prefer regarding using full shelves or half shelves. I am quite strong, so I am not too concerned about the weight issue of the full shelves, but otherwise, is there a reason that I should consider buying half shelves? I know they do give flexibility in the loading of varying height pieces, but beyond that, is there a reason to use them? Do they offer better flow of air around the work if they are separated slightly and is that desired? Can a person span from one half shelf to another safely without creating a glaze change where the gap is located due to air movement? And one more item if you have the time. Do any of you use triangular posts? I am considering buying 2" triangles to complete my kiln furniture package. Do you guys prefer square instead? Any help you can give me would be much appreciated!! I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and I can almost say Happy New Year!
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Post by Arnie Benton on Jan 1, 2017 10:24:37 GMT -6
Hi Abel -
For me, the Advancers have been worth the cost - although they were much less expensive 10 years ago. I bought 7 of them and they're all 'good as new'.
I fire mostly plates and shallow bowls, so I usually fire with 5 or 6 shelves - and use 1.5 inch posts, 3 to 5" length. The kiln heats faster and cools faster - elements live longer.
The posts and sometimes the foot of porcelain pieces can stick to the shelf. That and occasional glaze puddles are easily cleared off with some kind of scraper. Kiln wash isn't necessary, but I put some on before I knew that, and it's still there 10 years later.
Haven't used half shelves.
Axner Pottery sells a similar shelf for less than half the price, but I don't know anyone who's used them - you might just call them and ask about their experience with them and for the names of some potters who have bought them.
Only problem is if they get wet - they can crack or explode if heated when wet - there was a scare about them conducting electricity but the small amount of conductivity is not considered a safety issue. Just don't have the elements on when moving shelves.
Most potters think the thinner shelves giving more loading space, and the lower weight of shelf and posts decreasing power usage, makes up for the higher initial cost.
Arnie
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Abel
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Posts: 9
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Post by Abel on Jan 1, 2017 12:16:37 GMT -6
Good morning Arnie. Thanks for the reply to my first posting! You have provided some very good information... I have read a number of your posts over the last two years and appreciate your knowledge level!! I did a quick search on the nitride-bonded silicon carbide shelves that Axner sells and they seem pretty decent. The one thing that does concern me is that they state those shelves are hard to manufacture flat and that they try not to sell shelves that are more than one half of one percent out of flat as measured across the largest distance of the shelf. I will be buying 26" shelves so unless my math is wrong, they could be more than 1/8" out of flat and still be considered not defective by the seller. I think that part will be a deal breaker for me. 1/8" could add up to a lot of wobbles with multiple layers of shelves. Too bad! You are correct, they are less than half the cost of the Advancers. I think I will call kilnshelf.com on Monday and get a little more information from them regarding the Advancer shelves. It sounds like there are no issues with flatness with them and I would like their opinion on half versus full shelves also. Are you aware of a company that sells the Advancers cheaper? If so, please let me know... Regarding full shelves versus half shelves, I hope that others will weigh in on that... I do plan on using a full shelf for the bottom one and perhaps the top, but am questioning what to do for the levels in between those. I am wondering if there is an advantage other than some flexibility in loading various height ceramic pieces. Would temperature be more evenly distributed as a result of better air circulation inside the kiln? I do have a downdraft kiln vent, so that needs to be considered as part of the equation... Are there other advantages to using half shelves? Obviously they weigh less and will be easier to load and unload, but I will likely be going with the Advancers so the weight will not be of much concern. Is anyone using triangular posts? It is my understanding that Laguna sells them in the 2" size but they need to be asked for as they are not listed on their website. I am thinking the triangular posts would help keep wobbles to a minimum and give some additional clearance around wares but again, I am hoping for the more experienced to give their opinions on this... I am really excited to be starting with all of this. It has been a two year process saving up enough money for the equipment and building a studio. I can only imagine how exciting it will be to unload my first set of wares. Even if the initial results are less than outstanding... With all that said, I would really appreciate any feedback I receive from the members of this forum. I have been reading posts on here for about two years and have learned a lot. Thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge with myself and others!! Sincerely, Abel
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Abel
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by Abel on Jan 1, 2017 14:31:57 GMT -6
Arnie -
I have done some additional research on the "Advancer" shelves and found this interesting tidbit in a document on the kilnshelf.com website. It discusses porcelain bodies sticking badly to the shelves and why, but also talks about a manufacturer option of a coating that is compatible with porcelain applications, (probably for an additional charge.) I will look further into this and share what I find with the group. It did say that one can coat the shelves with kiln wash but that it was difficult to get it to stick due to the very low porosity of the Advancer shelves. It may be a good thing that you coated your shelves years ago as it may have prevented porcelain sticking!
Here is the copy/paste:
Porcelain
The Advancer® kiln shelf is the choice of many potters specifically because of its ability to resist glaze from
fusing onto the shelf surface; however, most porcelain clay bodies will stick to an Advancer® shelf.
Unglazed porcelain foot rings and pot bottoms will fuse onto a shelf surface so tenaciously that pots cannot
be removed without breaking off the fused portion. Similar to a wood-burning kiln, the alkalis in the porcelain
glaze will migrate under the ware and flux the glass layer of the shelf (especially at higher temperatures).
This lowers the viscosity of the glass layer making it very sticky. These potentially destructive effects can be
overcome by using an appropriate high alumina kiln wash. Due to its extremely low porosity, kiln washing an
Advancer® shelf is like trying to re-glaze a fired pot that has already been glazed. Application of kiln washes
is facilitated by pre warming shelves to promote drying. Several thin coats of an appropriate low clay content
wash will have less of a tendency to lift off during drying and firing. The manufacturer also provides a fired coating designed for porcelain compatibility and the ultimate adherence to an Advancer® shelf. It is best to
consult an application specialist for a specific kiln wash or coating recommendation.
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marie
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Post by marie on Jan 1, 2017 22:21:13 GMT -6
Hi Abel,
I am also looking into upgrading to a larger kiln, and I have been wondering if there is a less expensive alternative to advancers that work really well.
Right now, I use advancer shelves. I have had them for about 10 years, and just like Arnie said, they still work perfectly. I will probably go with advancers again because they are outstanding. I never use all of the shelves in a shelf kit all at one time. For me,two wholes and one half shelf is all I need.
I have noticed that the porcelain will stick to them, but since most of what I do is fired on a glaze catcher, it does not cause me problems. When I fire things like platters that sit directly on the shelf, I add a bit of alumina oxide to the shelf and carefully spread it out with a wide paintbrush. I do this dry, and it's like powdering a breadboard with flour. I don't use any liquid kiln wash because I'm worried about explosions! The alumina oxide provides a thin barrier between the piece and the shelf and allows the piece to expand and contract smoothly during the fire. I only use the alumina oxide on my bottom shelf so it won't matter if some dust gets knocked down while loading the kiln.
I personally use a half shelf a lot of the time. I plan to order one for my next kiln. I normally load my shortest pots toward the bottom of the kiln, and then my talls higher up. If I only have a few talls in a fire, I'll use the half shelf to maximize the space. Does this make sense?
As far as the kiln posts go, I have both square and triangular. I think if I was to order new ones, I'd go with triangular because the pots seem to fit better around them. Both shapes will hold up your shelves just fine.
I have noticed that my kiln posts stick to the advancer shelves. I alleviate this by dipping both ends of each post into kiln wash and letting it dry before using them. Come to think of it, my posts could probably use a refresher of kiln wash for the new year.
Cheers, Marie
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Post by billcampbell on Jan 2, 2017 10:56:36 GMT -6
Arnie
I have used "Advancers" for probably 20 years. I first started getting them as Nitrite bonded shelves from Germany from a company that was bought out by The company that makes Advancers. The price doubled, and has gone up significantly ever since. After many years, I needed to replace some of my shelves, and was shocked at just how much the price has risen. I talked to the guys at EUCLID, and asked about their nitrite bonded shelves that are made in China, and they suggested that I not use them. I did try a couple, and decided that they were not for me. The EUCLID folks did suggest I try some OXIDE bonded silicon carbide shelves. I have been using them ever since. They do not last as long as the Advancers, but the savings are enough to allow me to replace them from time to time. If you have time to test them out, you might try them. I am currently using them in 13 kilns that are fired to cone 11 as often as possible. I probably own about 150 of them. I do not wash them, but do use a layer of thin soft brick between the shelf and the catcher. I get the soft brick from Smith Sharpe. Smith Sharpe is a supplier for Advancers.
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Post by mohawkpiper on Jan 2, 2017 15:00:40 GMT -6
I have used corelite shelves since day one, and have nothing really to compare them to up until recently, my wife purchased ONE advancer shelf a year ago. I feel like, if you can take care of your shelves and the price is a big deal, between the two the corelite would be the way to go. They do warp but if you stack your posts on top of each other and flip the shelves from time to time it stays minimal and can be kept in check. Obviously this means taking care of your shelves. Do what you can to keep glaze drip minimal. Kiln Wash them regularly! If you don't wash them regularly and glaze gets on them it's a mess, and will lead to cracking eventually. Talking about cracking, They don't really crack unless (again) not taken care of. This means also not using four posts to hold up a full round shelf. Use only three. They have a grain, and can crack just from using four posts because it's like a square instead of a triangle.
I personally really like half shelves. Usually I only need one or two at most but occasionally things get crazy and we have like 4 or 5 and they all get stacked in there at weird angles and stuff. For the corelite shelves we only have one full shelf (for our bigger kiln).
One thing I LOVE about the corelite shelves is they are super easy to cut. I've cut full shelves in half to get two half shelves at a much lower cost. I've cut messed up shelves into quarter shelves, odd shaped shelves for those rare times you need, square shelves and smaller full shelves for the medium and smaller kiln.
That being said, I hate having to kiln wash my shelves all the time. The advancer shelf, while still fairly new to us (a year?), has been great. I have not washed it. Glaze is not always super easy to get off, but it still comes off. They are super thin which has definitely helped a few times. No cracks yet. Yes, porcelain does stick to them but since pretty much everything we throw in porcelain has a glaze catcher it hasn't been too big a deal.
Going forth, we will buy advancer shelves. But that is not to say I am replacing all my corelite shelves. I still like having them around, and maybe a little mix is what I like best. I like the advancers a lot better, but like having the corelite's as sort of a "disposable" shelf in ways. All in all if you don't mind putting in the extra time and care to keep your shelves in top shape and money is an issue the corelite's aren't a bad choice but if you have a little extra to spend or don't want to deal with the maintenance go advancer!
As for the posts, I prefer the triangular ones as well like Marie, over the square ones, because it is easier to fit stuff around them. There are two sized diameters for both square and triangle... I was unsure about the smaller diameter triangle posts at first but had to get a few because there were no other options and so far they have worked just fine, and even give a little more space then the larger diameter triangle ones. I do not use the square ones unless I run out of triangle ones.
G
ps morgan - replied
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Abel
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by Abel on Jan 2, 2017 20:41:19 GMT -6
Hi Marie, Bill, and Greg. I have read many of the posts on this forum and have seen all of your names in them. It is nice to be corresponding with all of you! I really appreciate the information and experiences you have shared with me. This is VERY helpful!! Thanks also to Arnie for being the first to reply and his great input! I am going to bite the bullet and go with 6 Advancer shelves, perhaps all fulls, but I will consider making a few half shelves. That purchase will leave a sizable dent in my wallet! But!! It does sound like they will be worth it in the long run... I think I will also go with the triangular posts. I found this website and may go with theirs: kilnpost.com/TileSetters.html Their posts are rated to cone 11 and they say that they can provide ones rated for up to cone 16 if desired. I may go with the higher rated ones if they are not too much additional cost, but I imagine the cone 11 rated ones would work fine. I know some people claim that their posts have shrunk in height over time because of repeated firings at cone 10 and above, so that is why I am considering the higher rated ones. If people are interested I can post what the additional cost is. Anyway, thanks again for all the great advice! I hope that I can return the favor once I become better versed in crystalline glazing. I am pretty handy in general, great with fabricating fixes, construction, and a woodworker, so if anyone needs advice regarding mechanical things or related items, please feel free to reach out to me! Have a great night! Abel
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Post by Arnie Benton on Jan 3, 2017 8:05:22 GMT -6
Hi Abel - quick note - I don't think you want to take your kiln above cone 11 often - very hard on the elements. And the 1 1/3 inch triangular posts do fine with the Advancers - wider ones just add more heat work and take away loadable space. More later.
Arnie
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Post by jfox on Jan 3, 2017 10:44:44 GMT -6
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Post by billcampbell on Jan 3, 2017 13:44:40 GMT -6
Jim
I don't suppose you would share the recipe for the body that you use for those kiln shelves?
Bill Campbell
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Post by jfox on Jan 3, 2017 14:22:12 GMT -6
they're high alumina, what 's interesting is these where made at cone 10 /11 and seem to get stronger after a few firings, im building a higher firing test kiln and take them to 1450C
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Post by Tracey Renner on Jan 3, 2017 17:34:17 GMT -6
Hi All,
I have been working on this too. I just purchased a new Skutt KM1027-3 with all the upgrades that I wanted – 3inch brick, Type S thermocouple, mercury relays, and APM elements. It is a big upgrade, and I am very happy to have it at the house.
However, I bought shelves that Skutt sold with the kiln….. when I saw them I was pretty disappointed. I knew they were mullite, but did not know they were only 5/8 of an inch.
The mullite shelves I have been using are much thicker – maybe 7/8 of an inch... I sent back the thin ones. Because this kiln has 3 inch brick, advancer and other shelves will not fit my new kiln – they would have to be cut down… in a special shop. It became very expensive; I don’t fire very often so I decided it was not worth getting the advancers.
I believe I am grabbing shelves that will fit the kiln in mullite that are the appropriate thickness. I have always used thick mullite shelves and never had an issue. My supplier has some here that are relatively cheap. I would rather have a thinner shelf – but with cost and size issues, I think this is my best choice. But maybe I should follow Greg’s lead and cut down some corelite shelves – I did not realize you could cut those. I'll have to think about it... I appreciate the info and link for the triangle posts because my square posts are ridiculously huge.
Thanks, Tracey
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Post by mohawkpiper on Jan 3, 2017 18:35:30 GMT -6
Tracey,
If you were interested in cutting them... I don't know what the corelites are made of... maybe the mullite ones are made of the same stuff? just not hollow? anyhow, i use a 4.5" silicon carbide disk on an angle grinder. It cuts through them like butter. (using the edge of the disk) maybe it would do the same for the mullite ones but may take a little more time as those are not hollow. I dunno but it could be worth a shot testing on an old worn one.
Just be careful about the dust. LOTS of dust. I cut them outside and use a fan to blow the dust away while cutting and wear a mask for sure.
Congrats on the upgrade btw. the 1027 is my fav.
G
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Abel
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by Abel on Jan 3, 2017 19:22:41 GMT -6
Hi Tracey and Greg.
Regarding cutting those shelves, I would consider buying a masonry blade sized for a circular saw. They cost about $7.00 for an abrasive type and more for a metal version. You will need to support the shelf fully while it is being cut so that you do not get a cracked shelf when you reach the end of that cut. (Support the shelf as if it were already in the two pieces you desire it to become.) You could achieve this by using (4) 2X4 wood boards - 2 to support each half of the shelf. Keep one out near the edge and one about an inch in from your cut line. Do this for the other side as well and make sure that you set the 2x4 boards on a very flat support surface.
Also, make sure your blade depth is less than the thickness of the shelf and depth of the narrow side of the 2x4s. (< shelf thickness plus 1-1/2") or you will cut into the surface supporting the 2x4 boards.
And Greg is right! There will be a lot of dust! Make sure to wear a drywall rated dust mask and eye protection. I would also recommend long sleeves, pants, and something to cover your hair. It would be best to do the cuts outdoors as masonry dust can be very fine and will hang in the air for a while and then deposit itself all over the tops of any horizontal indoor surface. If you have ever sanded drywall compound in a house, you will have experienced the dust. It even makes its way inside of closed cabinets...
So, with all this said, it is actually very easy to cut the shelves this way. The masonry blade will just bolt onto your saw the same as a standard wood cutting blade does.
Good luck with your project!!
Abel
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