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Post by Arnie Benton on Aug 6, 2015 10:37:43 GMT -6
Thought I'd start a new thread -
I'm often telling people to look at my pieces in the sun or under a light to really see them. Recently I decided to try making pieces that reflect more light - that sparkle even in the shade - since I reduce or strike so many of my pieces - which tend to make pieces darker - that adds to the problem.
I started with Co .2 and Ti 2 - Then I struck it - Striking clearly makes it darker - so I started over and added an engobe with TiA little better - next try is an engobe with Ti and Whiting - The color is getting whiter but I don't like what's happening to the crystals.
Next I think I go back to no engobe, add more Ti and play with glaze thickness.
THEN, try more colorants which will also effect the ground more than the Co does.
Arnie
Then I went back and increased the size of the font.
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Post by jfox on Aug 6, 2015 11:15:22 GMT -6
i use 2% tin.this has 1 coat of tin (you can see it at the top) followed by a coat of Ni ,then a band of copper.tin softens the colors
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Post by Arnie Benton on Aug 6, 2015 11:41:53 GMT -6
Thanks Jim - I have lots of tin from my stoneware days -
Arnie
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Kuba
Full Member
SztukKilka in Old Formu
Posts: 111
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Post by Kuba on Aug 6, 2015 11:42:12 GMT -6
I would also go and try with TinOx
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Post by tileman2 on Aug 6, 2015 15:32:34 GMT -6
Arnie:
TinxOx is the easy choice. The option is Ytrrium; a rare earth oxide. Yttiru is a weaker oxide than tin: so your mix ratio has to be adjusted. I run one with 3% yttrium with .10 Nic carb, or Co Carb. Can even use a "pinch" of either.
Tom
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Post by Koz on Aug 6, 2015 21:18:01 GMT -6
Dr. Arnie,
Good Sir, if you want white, take out the blue.
Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course......
Koz
PS
I've done my best to read your post very carefully to not mis-interpret it, you deserve that from me, but......?
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Post by Arnie Benton on Aug 7, 2015 8:55:22 GMT -6
Hi Koz - You're right. I wasn't clear - I'm not looking for a pure white plate. I'm looking for a whitish background - or light tan or light grey - with colored crystals. I'd like to find ways to make lighter tones that reflect more light - maybe that's a contradiction - but my test is looking at the pieces displayed on the mantle in regular room light - some I can see well, and others need a bright light shining on them to bring out their colors. They look good (to me) with the light from a computer screen shining through them but they look dingy with reflected light. I'm trying to improve the reflected light version - that's the real world experience. Maybe I'll have to end up putting more lights in the room because I'm pretty happy with the computer screen look of the pieces I've been making recently. But if I could lighten the tones so they reflect more light ..... I thought I would start by making a whitish piece - reflecting the most light - and go from there. The engobe with Ti and CaCO3 gives the brightest tones but also changes the crystals - sometimes I like them better, sometimes not - so I'd like to see what the effect is of adding the Ti and CaCO3 directly to the glaze, in smaller amounts. Much of what I've been doing is one glaze on top of another - which is probably similar to a glaze on top of an engobe, in that there is a different concentration of ingredients in the outer portion of the glaze mix than in the inner portion - I haven't been able to get the same effect by putting all the ingredients in one glaze, no matter how much I change the amounts - I have to believe there is a differential between inner and outer portions of the glaze when they are layered - incomplete mixing when the glaze melts, to account for the effects achieved. If I could get something like this, with lighter tones, I'd be happy - at least for a few hours - Trouble is, it looks brighter on the screen than it does in the room, so there's no way to really illustrate what I'm talking about. Arnie
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Post by tileman2 on Aug 7, 2015 12:28:39 GMT -6
Arnie:
Thought I would give you a new word to play with:
..... which is refractive index.
Tom
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