Strike 1,038 celsius (1,900 fahren),Dinnerware Safety, Fixes
Nov 15, 2016 21:06:02 GMT -6
Post by sherri on Nov 15, 2016 21:06:02 GMT -6
So, that discussion on fixing things by using low fire glaze got me back on that train.
Over a year ago, I tested Mayco Crystal Brushing Clear over an Ilsley fritless recipe hoping for something that might by dinnerware safe. The surface got very cloudy. However, it may have been partially due to the wet atmosphere of the kiln - the test piece was in with low fire student work and also glaze thickness may have been to thick.
I tried the Mayco Crystal Brushing Clear again this week. I brushed it on very thinly using my finger to put just enough to suspend 4 tiny chunks (about 2 mm across) of Spectrum CR09 Reactive Green (they're little chunks of glass that kind of explode in the glaze).
The result below is on red Cu.. The reactive green chunks are at the center of the darker green almost teardrop shape at the upper right corner in the first photo. The crystal-like structures at the center of the teardrop shape are the reactive green with the darker green outside due to the brushing clear.
In the second photo, it is enlarged.
It looks good but is slightly raised on the surface and is a mirror surface. With the strike and a hold at 30 minutes, the surface of both test containers got to be a bit of a satin finish - unlike the very shiny typical surface.
Okay, that was my test to see if the photos are working from photo bucket. I can see them. Hopefully you can too. However, it seems that they have decided not to work now. So, here are the other tests:
The half hour strike made my beautiful bright aventurine glaze go from exceptionally sparkly and bright brown to a tan color with little sparkle - disappointing.
I also tried Jungle Gems Bloomin' Blue as thin as I could on a roughened surface where I'd seeded and diamond tooled the sharp point of the crystal. The result was excellent where I'd applied it - transparent so that you could see the crystals underneath. However, again, I didn't appreciate the change of the test container to not being quite as shiny as the Jungle Gems surface.
Also, in addition to the disappointment of a somewhat satin surface, crazing on one test glaze actually looked worse as the gaps widened between the cracks and were highlighted when placed close to light. So, it's definitely not a good idea to do a cone 05 strike like this to a crazed piece.
I also tried mixing a glaze with 3. Gerstley. And then to about an 1/8 teas glaze, I added about .2 grams of lithium mixing it between my fingers (I know - I usually use gloves but I was being impatient at the moment). The result was transparent, shiny, and perfect on one tiny (about 3mm area), but yet was very bubbly on another area of the same size - probably because of my very imperfect mixing method.
Additionally, I applied as thin as possible using my finger Coyote Aurora Crystalline Glaze to the base where I'd used a diamond lap to grind excess glaze. The result was that the surface was the same satiny finish as the rest of the container - a perfect match.
Over a year ago, I tested Mayco Crystal Brushing Clear over an Ilsley fritless recipe hoping for something that might by dinnerware safe. The surface got very cloudy. However, it may have been partially due to the wet atmosphere of the kiln - the test piece was in with low fire student work and also glaze thickness may have been to thick.
I tried the Mayco Crystal Brushing Clear again this week. I brushed it on very thinly using my finger to put just enough to suspend 4 tiny chunks (about 2 mm across) of Spectrum CR09 Reactive Green (they're little chunks of glass that kind of explode in the glaze).
The result below is on red Cu.. The reactive green chunks are at the center of the darker green almost teardrop shape at the upper right corner in the first photo. The crystal-like structures at the center of the teardrop shape are the reactive green with the darker green outside due to the brushing clear.
In the second photo, it is enlarged.
It looks good but is slightly raised on the surface and is a mirror surface. With the strike and a hold at 30 minutes, the surface of both test containers got to be a bit of a satin finish - unlike the very shiny typical surface.
Okay, that was my test to see if the photos are working from photo bucket. I can see them. Hopefully you can too. However, it seems that they have decided not to work now. So, here are the other tests:
The half hour strike made my beautiful bright aventurine glaze go from exceptionally sparkly and bright brown to a tan color with little sparkle - disappointing.
I also tried Jungle Gems Bloomin' Blue as thin as I could on a roughened surface where I'd seeded and diamond tooled the sharp point of the crystal. The result was excellent where I'd applied it - transparent so that you could see the crystals underneath. However, again, I didn't appreciate the change of the test container to not being quite as shiny as the Jungle Gems surface.
Also, in addition to the disappointment of a somewhat satin surface, crazing on one test glaze actually looked worse as the gaps widened between the cracks and were highlighted when placed close to light. So, it's definitely not a good idea to do a cone 05 strike like this to a crazed piece.
I also tried mixing a glaze with 3. Gerstley. And then to about an 1/8 teas glaze, I added about .2 grams of lithium mixing it between my fingers (I know - I usually use gloves but I was being impatient at the moment). The result was transparent, shiny, and perfect on one tiny (about 3mm area), but yet was very bubbly on another area of the same size - probably because of my very imperfect mixing method.
Additionally, I applied as thin as possible using my finger Coyote Aurora Crystalline Glaze to the base where I'd used a diamond lap to grind excess glaze. The result was that the surface was the same satiny finish as the rest of the container - a perfect match.
